The embroidered pocket book was an extremely popular accessory for fashionable men and women in the late 18th and early 19th centuries, storing everything from money to letters to shopping lists. In this blog post, RSN volunteer Belle Riou-Pollard explores how 18th-century pocket books like those in the Royal School of Needlework Collection can tell us about the lives of the women who made and used them.
Belle Riou-Pollard is a volunteer at the Royal School of Needlework, where she assists in the digitisation and cataloguing of the collection
Figure 1: Pocket book, 1789, RSN Collection, RSN 32.d
The pocket book is exactly as it sounds: a small, embroidered, elaborately designed accessory that closely resembles a modern-day purse. These pieces stood out to me as exciting, unique historical items, simply because their designs appear so incredibly modern to my present-day eye. I could easily imagine myself picking one up today and using it just as I use my own purse. I was astonished to realise that some of these pocket books are over 200 years old, with a few even older. Their seamless blend of design, quality, and practical functionality is truly remarkable, offering a fascinating glimpse into the microcosm of women’s daily lives, fashion trends, and social history in Britain. These items also serve as a bridge between fashion and art history, highlighting how embroidery was central to the identity of women’s accessories and the broader cultural fabric of the era.
Figure 2: Pocket book, circa 1780-1800, RSN Collection, RSN 32.a
Notable examples from the collection include a green and pink pocket book, a bird-design pocket book, a blue quilted pocket book, and a tambour-embroidered pocket book—all dating from between 1780 and 1800. The history of the pocket book not only serves as a beautiful example of embroidery and design from the time periods in which they were made, it also provides us with a fascinating snapshot into the daily lives and lived experiences of the women who could afford and utilise pocket books during the 18th century. These neat, portable books were thin, streamlined, and designed to fit snugly into a pocket, a small bag, or within clothing for easy use and carrying. Their primary function was straightforward: to carry important documents, papers, images and supplies on a daily basis. However, they often had another function: to aid the spread of socio-political knowledge and to promote literacy, by making reading and social knowledge a part of day-to-day life.
This played an important role in making information accessible to the public, particularly to women in the emerging middle class in an era that saw the rise of the separate social spheres and the new domestic woman, allowing for convenient consultation in various social settings. As such, this practice sheds some light on our understanding of women’s lives in the 18th century, revealing the societal expectations and evolving roles of women during this period.
Design was significant, too, as pocket books served both functional and symbolic purposes. The detailed design and hand needlework would have communicated an owner’s status and taste. Popular themes, such as pastoral scenes, birds, or floral arrangements, aligned with broader artistic movements of the time and reflected the user’s knowledge and access to high-quality, fashionable embroidery. We can therefore gain insight into the techniques, tools, and materials used by 18th-century embroiderers, understanding what was deemed attractive and worthy of popular attention in a certain time. Equally, the physical materials used, such as lustrous silk threads and dyed satins and printed cottons, shed light on the availability of resources, as well as evolving trends in textile production.
Ladies’ daily pocket books also often featured fashion plates, social advice, drawings, and paintings, as well as sections for personal notes. Travel pocket books contained maps, travel tips, and descriptions of places, catering to the growing trend of leisure and business travel. These also depicted architectural styles of the era to aid in travel, highlighting both evolving trends and changes in taste over time. These books now serve as mirrors—reflecting what was deemed integral socially and culturally during the era, particularly concerning women’s fashion and societal expectations. Additionally, these illustrations provide a window into what was considered visually appealing to society, revealing the aesthetic preferences and cultural influences of the period.
There was also a practice of presenting these books to girls upon reaching adulthood, which deftly underscores their perceived importance as tools for maturity and sheds light on how even young girls and women experienced their lives. This milestone often marked the beginning of their roles in managing household affairs with pocket books including instruction booklets and documents. The contents of these books, alongside their design and function, reveal so much about gender roles and domestic life. Moreover, since these books frequently included spaces for personal notes and reflections, many serve as valuable, personal historical records.
Of particular interest to me as a fashion historian, though, are the fashion details stored in a pocket book. A knowledge of fashion was essential for women of the time, and this knowledge would have come in the form of published documents, personal notes, shopping lists, and paintings or drawings aimed at guiding the user in dressing appropriately for the fashion of the moment.
Fig.3: Pocket book, circa 1780s, RSN Collection, RSN 32.f Fig.4: Pocket book, circa 1780-1800, RSN Collection, RSN 32.c Fig.5: Pocket book, 1780s, RSN Collection, RSN 32.b
These fashion prints were popular into the 19th century. This element of the pocket book is intriguing from a fashion history perspective for two compelling reasons. First, it offers a vivid portrayal of the evolving trends and societal expectations surrounding women’s fashion. In detailing the changes and trends in fashion, these illustrations provide a comprehensive view of what was considered visually appealing and socially acceptable. Secondly, these images serve as a valuable record of the aesthetic preferences and cultural influences that shaped women’s fashion.
They not only highlight what women were expected to wear but also shed light on the elaborate details and accessories that were in vogue during different periods. This insight into the aesthetics of the time, which included the embroidery designs found in examples from the RSN collection, underscores their artistic significance and an era’s defining aesthetics.
The embroidery designs found on these pocket books greatly contribute to our understanding of how women would have accessorised and styled their clothing, with pocket books functioning both practically and as accessories in their own right, much like handbags today. While initially appearing unrelated to fashion history, a deeper exploration reveals their essential role in reflecting trends and cultural practices. The elaborate designs provide valuable insights into the aesthetics and personal expressions of women’s fashion during these periods, offering a compelling avenue for studying the evolution of style and societal norms.
At the RSN, preserving and celebrating these traditions is about keeping the art of embroidery alive for future generations. By examining the life and work gone into making historical pieces such as these pocket books, we can hope to better appreciate their artistic and cultural importance, while aiming to inspire future generations of crafters and embroiders to continue on this wonderful work.