The RSN Embroidery Studio was asked to submit costings and designs for a full Pontifical set to celebrate the Abbey’s Millennium. Following the brief, many saints were designed as well as Our Lady of Buckfast, holding the Christ child and Jesus Christ on the cross. There were two Kings; King Edmund and King Canute, featured on the Stole and the Crown of Thrones with PAX in the centre on the Chasuble.

The techniques used for the figures were a combination of Appliqué for the bodies of the saints and the flooring. These were embellished with hand embroidery to create depth, giving a three-dimensional feel. The faces and hands were worked in Tapestry Shading, a form of Silk Shading where the stitches are kept perfectly vertical yet achieves the movement of a draping garment.

Each saint was researched and their garments and colours were denoted by whether they were a Bishop, Monk or even a hermit. Each figure was placed within an arch, design and shape taken from the Abbey. These were created in appliqued Cloth of Gold with Gold Pearl Purl to define the curve of the columns, shadowing was added with stitches to give the sense of depth.

The combination was repeated throughout the vestments to maintain a continuity to the design of the whole set. On the bottom of the arch, we featured the saint’s name. Research of the Abbey’s other vestments combined with a discussion with those who would be wearing them led to the decision regarding the style and size of the final pieces. Each of the vestments were drawn up as a paper pattern and a toile, then a mock up was made in cotton fabric.

On one visit, the Abbot tried on the toiles and they were altered to ensure that they fitted comfortably around the neck and under arm, and were the correct length. This is very important as the vestments are heavy and cumbersome to wear during long services, so we try to make them as comfortable and light as possible. For this particular set, we sourced a lighter weight interlining to reduce some of the weight particularly on the Chasuble as it had the most embroidery.

The Orphreys on all the garments were in the same fabric, a gold silk. On the Chasuble, the Orphrey was embroidered between each of the saints with a scroll pattern taken from within the Abbey. This was worked in Pearl Purl with shadow lines again to give a sense of depth. The Orphreys throughout the Pontifical set have been edged with red and gold braid and on some vestments fringing was also added with the braid running along the top of the fringe.

This was a very large project and all of the team in our Embroidery Studio have helped deliver these exquisite new pieces. We were delighted to work on this wonderful project and feel privileged that our work is set to become part of the new history of Buckfast Abbey.

Do you have a piece of embroidery you would like produced?

Visit the RSN Embroidery Studio Website to find out more about new commission service.